From Agadir to Les Peintures

Agadir, So so, Foum Agoutir, Tafraoute

Agadir was on 29.02.1960 – So almost exactly 48 Years – almost entirely destroyed by an earthquake short. 15.000 Residents then lost their lives - almost 1/3 the resident.

The city has been completely rebuilt and is now both popular swimming- and tourist, as well as an important port- and industrial city. Presumably it is this new beginning of Agadir can rather appear as a European city.

We will visit the over on a 230 m high hill lying Kasbah, one of the few attractions preserved, with sweeping views over the port facilities, the bay with long sandy beach and the city.

Then it goes to the multi-lane main road through the city, past the royal palace straight to Marjane supermarket, which lies south of the center just outside on the main road.

After filling our inventories, we drive on the N1 south to Tiznit, in the well-known for its lovely silver jewelry provincial capital.

Opposite the campsite we stay in the parking lot at the supermarket. Here the reception of open WLANs directly in the vehicle is possible. Our tour of the Old Town, built in typical style desert we start at Bab Oulad Jarrar, one of the six goals, which brings us close to our accommodation place by the high city walls.

Man(n) can here the endurance of women(in) admire, after the 30th jewelry business with nearly identical delivery, still need to study the showcase of the 31st Business scrupulously.

Undoubtedly here trinkets crafted excellently crafted offered.

Comfortable, we control the next morning over Aglou-Plage, on the beautiful coast to Sidi Ifni to.

About 10 vor km Sidi Ifni, opposite a small campsite, turn right a dirt road to the nearby coast from. We park up on the rocks and go down to the sandy beach to the left - as it were, to the south towards Sidi Ifni. Maybe 1-2 km later we reach two gigantic, Shaped by nature rocks Goals, the very remind us of the Arches NP / USA.

After extensive beach walk takes in the former Spanish enclave Sidi Ifni, the annual 1969 again reverted to Morocco.

We stay on the simple CP El Barco directly on the wall to the sandy beach. On the square in front of the gate to the CP, you can receive an open Wi-Fi.

A walk on the sandy beach takes us north to interesting rock formations of the cliffs and rocks, which are canceled by this.

The Rocks shimmer in every imaginable color, especially in red- and browns of all shades. The entertaining way you can go at low tide.

From Sidi Ifni we drive on the N12 by a contrasting mountain landscape after Guelmim, the gateway to the Sahara. On the street with little traffic comes our first herd "ships of the desert" counter.

We stop, to allow the animals to pass safely and by the spectacle to enjoy themselves.

In Guelmim shows the Navi at an intersection, that we have the right.

We distrust the Navi, since neither a traffic sign can be seen, yet the road "looks to the right as the main road to Africa" ​​and is a little further forward to see a roundabout.

The roundabout hardly brings further knowledge in the form of useful signs, so that we pause.

We are not yet properly, speaks to us an elderly Moroccan in German at: "Where are you going?". As it turns out, he has 17 Years lived in Germany and worked at a supermarket chain as a driver, is now retired and sells used cars from France and Spain to Mauritania and Mali.

He insists, to show us as a passenger on a moped the way to Tan-Tan (Navi was right). At one point, the other route appears clearly as him, Let again to for a conversation. In perfect German he gives us information about the area and the additional distance to Dakhla. He rejects a tip, but asks for moped riders to have a beer - so to speak, fuel to fuel.

Now we are by an increasingly dry desert steppe to Tan-Tan go.

At times, come to us almost exclusively SUVs with high mounted air intake and single heavy trucks counter.

In the SUV, form the often small convoys, Sitting usually masked figures with black turbans. Presumably, the men transported their goods in the city

After interesting drive we reach Tan-Tan. The over the N1 "kissing" dromedaries at the entrance were unfortunately destroyed during a storm and replaced with new ones, the rather unspectacular right and left of the road are.

Tan-Tan lies on the northwestern edge of the Sahara and here began on 6.Nov. 1975 the Green march (Green March) for the Liberation of Western Sahara.

We stopped at the first police control since we are in Morocco.

Probably it's just curiosity, because the friendly policeman will not even see our papers, only a short and nice conversation, where we come from and where we're going.

So it goes on El Ouatia (Formerly Tan-Tan-Plage) along the coast to Sidi Akhfennir to. In the dry environment, we cross several wadis (Riverbeds), which open out in a beautiful landscape in the Atlantic.

The middle of nowhere, we come as a surprise to the first "intensified" police control because of its proximity to Western Sahara, when we give our "Fiches de renseignement". Here are is a form in which personal data entered.

We have filled in a form with the constant data, copied several times and contribute if necessary to the changing data (Departure / Arrival) in one of the copies, which we then handed over to the police.

Without a completed form, you have to leave the passes and the officer noted the relevant data. The 'fiche' spared a waiting period and the police paperwork.

A few meters after the police control we roll with almost empty tanks to the first gas stations with the cheapest Western Sahara diesel.

We refuel at a gas station, at the refuel several local truck driver and pay converted 0,398 EUR pro Liter. Of course, we fully recharge.

Since El Ouatia we are now ca. 100 km driven by desert landscape and reach the first place Sidi Akhfennir.

Here we have the army permission to stay at the lagoon (Foum Agoutir) catch up. We learn from the friendly military chief, we interfere with nap, that the Secretary to 15:00 Lunch Break has. Um as. 16:00 he is then there at last and gave us a handwritten, formless approval.

The permit is obtained at the northern entrance on the right side before the bridge. Here are several buildings with Moroccan national flags. In the right rear building (Funkmast) can be found just after the entrance left the office of the secretary.

Even the trip to the 22 km south of Sidi Akhfennir nearby lagoon is beautiful. We see golden sand dunes under a blue sky in the distance lights.

The high sand dunes form a natural barrier to the Atlantic.

However, seawater can flow behind the sand dunes, and so has a ca. 20 formed km long green lagoon, with a rich area for these desert animals- and fauna can boast.

Throughout the Natural Park Khnifiss there are many different species of birds (z.B. Flamingos), Shellfish, Crustaceans, numerous species of fish, Snakes (North African cobra), Geckos, Chameleons, Scorpions, Turtles, Desert Foxes, u.v.a.m.

The Nature Protection Supervisor on the lagoon can show all the wildlife of the park based on a brochure.

We stay on the cliffs ca. 10 m over the lagoon and see across the lagoon across the sand dunes and the Atlantic.

One can not describe, What beautiful place nature has created here. The bright colors and strong contrasts, the change during the day, can be reproduced only insufficiently photographs.

At the lagoon there is always windy, the air is hazy and temperatures rise within a few hours to about 10 ° C. A change in the weather is coming up, which is why we spend a day earlier after Tan-Tan back. The wind is fierce, We meet on sand drifts and the air turns yellow - a small sandstorm.

Today we want in Ksar Tafnidilt stay north of Tan-Tan. A runway, which branches off the Oued Draa, leads us ca. 6 km to Ksar Tafnidilt, near an old fort.

We drive over Guelmim and Sidi Ifni-back to Tiznit, from which branches off the road to Tafraoute in Anti Atlas.

The loop through Tafraoute we deliberately placed on the way back, since in this direction on the narrow, usually unsecured Bergstrassen travels mainly on the mountain side.

Boasting stunning views in an enchanting mountain scenery it comes to Tafraoute. The incipient almond blossom and the many individual Arganien underline the stark beauty of the landscape.

The mountains around Tafraoute is one of the richer regions of Morocco, as descended from here throughout Morocco active merchants and entrepreneurs. We stay in a palm grove surrounded by great mountains.

To achieve the Les Peintures, we need some kilometers to Aguard Oudad right, on a good slope. The Belgian artist Jean Verame has created here in the absolute solitude a work of art, by painted rock in harmony with the environment in different colors.

Unfortunately the colors fade already. We drive to the slopes further, which leads us to the road to Tahala, from where we cross the very pretty valley of Ammeln up to Tafraoute.

The slope of the "Les Peintures" west to the road to Tahala is currently not a normal car passable, because it has been washed away at a location.

On the R105 we take some very narrow mountain road with few alternatives on AIT Baha and Biougra to Agadir. We have terrific views into the deep and long valleys. The mountains shimmering in all imaginable shades of brown, partly merging into red and yellow. The colors of the houses, the area fit, or consciously distance themselves from them by colored accent.

Especially on the track to Ait Baha we are glad to have the mountain on our side.

Suddenly sees a coach around the bend and stands us quasi bumper to bumper against.

The tarred lane is barely wider than our vehicle, left it goes down unsecured, right of the mountain.

We drive slowly backwards and push us to a slightly wider body so close to the mountain, that we are already at a slight angle.

The coach squeezes gently between hillside and past us. We would not want to sit in the coach, have since the day trippers on the right window guarantees only seen the deep valley and no more road.

To Biougra we fall back into a mild sandstorm, in which even the Navi often loses its orientation. We stay a few days on the CP Atlantica Parc, where we want to bring the sand out of the vehicle with a "spring cleaning". Minor maintenance work will also be carried out.

After that we want to continue in the royal city of Marrakech.


Galerie Naturpark Khnifiss Laguna Naila

The already large gallery of the travelogue would overloaded with more pictures of the lagoon. However, the interested should not be deprived of these images, which is why we have set up a gallery with pictures of the Lagoon Naila.

“Everyone, the keeps the ability, Nice to see,
will never grow old.”
(Franz Kafka, 1883-1924)