From the coast to the colonial highlands

Topolobampo, Mazatlan, Guadalajara, Zacatecas

Am Morgen des 16. September 1810 calls the scholar and priest Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla country together his church in the village church of Dolores and to rebellion against Spanish colonial rule on.

Als Grito de Dolores (Cry of Dolores) penetrates the message throughout the country and solves the long, bloody war of independence against the Spaniards from, of the first with the Mexican independence 24.08.1821 will be finished.

The Cry of Dolores has deeply burned in the Mexican people's soul. On the night of National Day (16. September) it rings out as a ritual today across the country.

On our further journey, we are in the Mexican highlands even more frequently in the footsteps of Miguel Hidalgo and his colleagues Ignacio de Allende, Juan Aldama etc.. to meet.

Am Morgen des 16. February 2009, also knapp 200 Years later, we are on the way to Baja Pichilingue Ferry.

In approximately 6 Hours to bring us the California Star on the Mexican mainland.

Perfect weather and mirror-like, turquoise water take us any idea of ​​a high seas, had to report by the travelers.

Even the loading- carried and unloading of ferry, Contrary to other reports, surprisingly organized. Vom Fähranleger in Topolobampo (Los Mochis) we drive the coast of mainland along southbound.

It is carnival time and we do not want to miss the famous parade in Mazatlan, of Rio de Janeiro and New Orleans is the third largest carnival parade in the world.

The major port city located a few kilometers south of the Tropic of Cancer and thus in the tropics, directly opposite the southern tip of Baja California.

Our "base camp" for carnival parade and city tour is the California Trailer Park. For Malecón (Waterfront) are there 2-3 Minute and the carnival parade runs from the Malecón directly past the trailer park.

Hours before the move we see Mexican families and knowledgeable tourists brought or freshly bought chairs their place at several kilometers long Malecón reservations.

From big pile distribute Distributor quick cash premium wooden folding chairs, Bands start playing, People dancing in front of the stage and the first stalls sell food or cold beer.

We are in the midst of a gigantic party, culminating in 4-5 Hours of carnival parade will be the evening.

Flashing police cars lead to the spectacle and the local in-crowd follows in expensive sports cars.

Behind it, the colorfully decorated and illuminated floats from various cities series, States and companies.

Even after moving the party continues and the city comes in the night hardly to rest.

After the carnival days we look at the sights of the city on, and visit the Acuario Mazatlán first, one of the largest aquariums in Mexico.

Pulmonia called the approximately 400 open Taxis, of which us one for El Faro brings and their known engine noise betrays the deck of a converted VW Beetle, the here Vocho (ie: Botscho) called.

157 m is El Faro above sea level, making it to Gibraltar the second highest lighthouse in the world. The grandiose views of Mazatlan and its long sandy beaches compensated for the difficult climb.

An airy Pulmonia brings us to the contemplative Plazuela Machado in Old Town, walk we go to the Zócalo (central square of the city), visit the church and stroll through the Mercado (Covered market), reminds us of the souks in Morocco.

On our last night we even get to know the sympathetic Verena, originally from Germany and has lived in the us so esteemed Victoria.

Early in the morning we go, because we want the 500 kilometers and 1,600 meters of altitude to Guadalajara on a driving day deal. On the low-traffic Cuota (Freeway) We are making good progress with a comfortable ride. Long slopes and outside temperatures of over 35 ° C partly, forcing so many cars for respite with the hood open.

Guadalajara (gegr. 1542) is the state capital of Jalisco and the second largest city of Mexico. Lt. Wikipedia has approximately 1.6 million. Inhabitant, the metropolitan area nearly 4.1 million.

Am 22. April 1992 occurred in Guadalajara mysterious misfortune, torn in the whole streets, more than 200 Killed people and 15.000 Residents were left homeless.

The Trailer Park San Jose del Tajo is located on a former farm. Here we want to stay a few days, do some things and visit the historic city center.

While walking we get to know an older Mexicans, the talks to us in relatively good German. He has mid-seventies for 1.5 Working years in Germany and since then the German language hardly practiced. Round 35 Years have passed! We are absolutely impressed!

A friend of the family owners of the hacienda comes along and tells of his BMW & Mercedes from the 70s, he builds just again. We learn more about the hacienda, the owner's family and about Guadalajara, his hometown.

From the nearby bus stop takes us a bit gruff in bus 45 Minutes to the historic center of downtown.

The main attractions are close together and can be explored on foot.

The landmark of the city is the impressive cathedral, which is surrounded by four large rectangular courts and made their spiers of yellow tiles. The richly decorated interior and powerful is also very impressive.

On the long Plaza de la Liberación, one of four places, we see the statue of Hidalgo, as it symbolizes the end of slavery in Mexico is torn chain in hands.

In the Church of St. Augustine we stay at a wedding ceremony, stroll through the pedestrianized Plaza Tapatía, watching the people and go to some of the stores.

A detour leads us to the largest market buildings in Mexico, Freedom dem Market. Here are all kinds of products (Electronics, Clothing, Lederwaren etc.) and offered his hunger can be at one of the many stalls calm with Mexican folk cuisine.

Guadalajara turns out to be bustling and modern city, which could stand in the midst of Europe. We have hardly the impression, to be in Mexico.

About the Periferico (Bypass) we drive to the north of the city and from there to the national road #54, the us in the 300-km away and 2,500 m above sea level Zacatecas brings.

The route is scenic interesting, but unsustainable impressive.

Das Hotel del Bosque, where we stay, is well signposted and easy to find. We are just when parking, as we in the familiar us, South German dialect are asked, What do Heilbronner here.

It is the sympathetic Uwe from the Stuttgart area, who lives with his family here in Mexico and its business to the new festival hall of the hotel, the entrance canopy and the representative interior staircase made of stainless steel manufactures.

So we see ourselves every day, have a lot to tell and Uwe happy to answer our questions about a thousand Mexico.

By Uwe we learn the owner of the hotel chain Hoteles del Bosque and his sister know, who is interested in our vehicle and gets a brief guide.

Which 1546 Founded in silver mining town of Zacatecas is one of the most beautiful cities in Mexico and as a gem Spanish colonial architecture.

It is the capital of the state of the same name, since 1993 World Heritage Site and is fortunately something known off the beaten track.

From a narrow valley, the town stretches along the mountain slopes and from, the mountains, the precious metals contained.

From the valley station of the Teleférico Cerro del Grillo (Hill of the crickets), which is adjacent to the Hotel del Bosque, we climb a few stairs down and follow the steep cobbled streets downhill to downtown, in the center of the magnificent Cathedral located.

An overwhelming opulence of ornaments and figures decorate the facade of the Mexican Churriguerismus held church building, the annual 1862 was elevated to the status of a cathedral.

Compared with the splendor of the facade, the interior is almost disappointingly simple, because the church treasure was lost during the war reform.

North of the cathedral, the Plaza de Armas connects bald, the east side is bordered by the Government Palace Palacio de Gobierno.

Our exploration tour brings us to the Calle Hidalgo to the north and among the steel cables of the Museo Rafael Coronel Teleférico through, which in a former Franciscan convent is the 16. Jh. is.

Here are 2.700 Housed masks of the artist Rafael Coronel collection, of total 11.000 Masks should have possessed. The exhibits include pre-Hispanic ceramics from Mexico and some historical musical instruments.

Our return journey takes us past the bakery at the pretty fountain. Quick learns the nice saleswoman, that the unknown Palefaces, come now often, Sandwiches and desserts would like packaged separately.

After a trip to the Mercado González Ortega it goes past the church Santo Domingo, uphill through the Calle Aquiles Serdán, the school building right and then the steep, cobbled streets up to our vehicle.

German jack saves Mexican Großbaustelle! The next morning, Uwe borrow our car jack.

A portion of the stainless steel staircase must be raised, so that there are two stair parts for attaching a weld closer together.

That works very well and in the afternoon, when we come back from the city, everything is already done.

The Museo Francisco Goitia is housed in a former Governor's Palace and exhibits works by artists from Zacatecas.

Among the brothers of Coronel and the course of its namesake Francisco Goitia.

Through the adjacent Parque Enrique Estrada, the fountain is controlled by music, we reach the imposing Acueducto del Cubo, of the city until the beginning of 20. Century has supplied with drinking water.

Nearby is a luxurious 5-star hotel Quinta Real, its organic integration into the grandstand of the old bullring San Pedro can be called architectural masterpiece.

Behind the hospital is the main entrance of the Mina El Eden, one of the most productive mines of Zacatecas, which in its heyday in 17. and 18. Jh. a "global player" in the world market was.

About 1586 to 1960 huge amounts of precious metals silver and gold were promoted here, In addition, zinc, Copper, Iron and lead.

With the mine train, we bump into a few minutes by the low tunnels La Esperanza (the hope) ca. 600 m in den Berg.

We put our yellow, miner's lamp-less pit helmets on and attend to match the mountain museum, which presents a unique collection of stones and minerals from all over the world.

Immediately after the Museum we cross the famous mines nightclub El Malacate, rocks in the from Thursday to Sunday the mountain.

In the further guide we look at underground lakes, we see the tools of the miners, listen ancient legends and will be advised of the once poor working conditions of most indigenous miners.

Defect records is not known, how many people have died here. A human life was worth nothing, because waiting outside thousands of others to work.

An elevator brings us to the tunnels El Grillo, about we leave the mine at the next exit at the Hotel Del Bosque.

The impressive Museo Zacatecana deals with the art of the Native American tribe of Huicholes, living a very secluded life in the Sierra Madre Occidental in the Mexican highlands as mountain farmers.

Colorful Garnbilder, traditional clothing, designed with pearls Votivschalen and photographs allow the visitor a glimpse into the lives of the Huicholes.

The Teleférico, of the 30 Year-old Swiss cable car, we float counter above the rooftops of Zacatecas the upper station of the Cerro de la Bufa, together with Uwe.

On the 650 m long track is sensational views of Zacatecas result, the sights and the surrounding area.

From the station we go a bit uphill to the beautiful chapel Capilla de la Virgen de Patrocinio, from where we also have a magnificent view of Zacatecas.

In June 1914 took place on Cerro de la Bufa an important battle of the Mexican Revolution instead, when the revolutionary Francisco "Pancho" Villa was victorious over the government forces.

Im Museum of Toma de Zacatecas (next to the chapel) Photos are, Papers, Newspaper clippings and military objects (Cannons, Guns etc.) issued from that time.

On the fortified walk, we are relatively rapidly from the mountain in the city, still walk past at our head baker and strengthen us with goodies brought.

Later, we start again on the way into town, to Zacatecas to experience even at night.

Uwe and his two employees give us the next day an introduction to the musical folk hero Mexico.

The list with the list of names we keep him as a treasure and go so only once to buy CDs.

Evening, the Academy of Music at the University of Zacatecas to a free event at the Teatro Calderón, what we do not want to miss us. Presented music and dance. More accurate: Flamenco. An entertaining and interesting presentation.

We want to Aguascalientes the next day to Guanajuato.

Since Uwe travels from the site of Aguascalientes, we hang us off, so that we can find easily around the city, closed to trucks.

So we get to know his family, who accompanied him to Aguascalientes.

It comes as it must, and the permitted truck bypass road is completely blocked due to a cycling event.

Police directing traffic and the diversion leads straight into the city.

While traveling ahead Uwe happens to traffic cops, he obtained through the open window a (fern)oral permission from the intersection Chefs, that we are allowed to drive despite lorry ban through the middle of the Forbidden City. And so it goes in Mexico.

Thanks Uwe! Viva Mexico!


“Mexiko Weapons: So far from God
and so close to the United States.”
(Porfirio Diaz, 1830-1915)